|60-0531 F-105D-10-RE Thunderchief
USAF FIGHTER WEAPONS SCHOOL, TR&D Division
1/48 Scale Hobby Boss
|The Test, Research & Development Division at Nellis operated within the USAF Fighter Weapons School. They
were equipped with several F-105Ds in 1962 to assist in the development of new weapons and tactics to meet
TAC’s rapid deployment of the F-105. 60-0531 was one of them.
While assigned to the 4525th Student Squadron/USAF Fighter Weapons School, 60-0531 crashed 14 March
1967 at Nellis AFB, NV. Details unknown.
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|The 1/48 Scale Hobby Boss has nice recessed panel lines but the same things are
wrong with it as the 1/72 and 1/32 Scale Trumpeter kits. I installed the correct Quick
Boost Ventral Fin, Aires Cockpit and Wheel Well Sets. It was a real job getting the
Aires sets to fit. Strange, I installed the Aires Sets in the Trumpeter kits without
|I drew the markings with
Corel Draw 15 and
printed with my ALPS
|The kit wheels/tires did not look right to me. Looking at photos of the real airplane they are definitely
different. I've built many Monogram F-105 kits and have some extra wheels/tires and they look spot on.
I used the Monogram wheel/tires.
|The biggest weakness in all three scales of this kit is the flimsy Main Gear Actuators!!
It allows too much Forward/Aft, Starboard/Port wobble. Eventually either breaking
the pin on the Main Gear that fits in the wing socket or the socket. Sometimes both.
Wheel Well kits do nothing to solve the problem. Their Resin Cast pieces are even
worse. Metal Gear may help with the problem however, I've found is, most of the time
the socket in the wing brakes.
To solve most of this wobble problem on the 1/48 Scale I used the Main Gear Actuators
from a Monogram kit. Cut a piece of small paper clip longer than you need. It will be
cut to the proper length when you fit it in the Wheel Well. Cut the Cylinder flush off
the Actuator. Cut the remaining plastic rod off the Cylinder. Drill a hole through the
cylinder the diameter of a small paper clip and a shallow hole in the end of the
Actuator where the cylinder was cut off. Cut the plastic pin off the other end of the
Actuator and drill a shallow hole for a short piece of paper clip. That will connect to
the main gear.
When it's all together it will still wobble a bit but nowhere as bad as the factory setup.
The socket the Main Gear fits in is still pretty fragile especially the Resin Cast Wheel
I did the same thing with a 1/32 Scale 'D' and 'F' I built. I made the Actuator from
Evergreen plastic bar stock and used the larger paper clip.
|Had to get the Wells
installed Wings together,
and Bare Metal Foil on the
Wings and Gear Doors.
Laid the Gear Doors in the
Wings, applied the Decals
then trimmed them while
|Main Gear installed.
|Early in their career, F-105s did not have the Cooling
Scoops, better known as 'SIX PACKS' and the
Reinforcements on the aft sides of the Fuselage,
Reinforcements on the Wings or the Red Strobes on
the top and bottom of the Fuselage. I removed the
Scoops, all Reinforcements and the Strobes.
|The two Horseshoe shaped pieces on the top of the Aft
section are molded as a round hole. That requires putting
the two halves of the Tail together on the Aft section. Then
attaching the Aft section to the Fusalage. For me, cutting the
hole to a Horseshoe allows putting the Forward and Aft
sections together easier and putting the Tail on after it's
|Pieces I added to support the
Cockpit. Had lots of grinding,
filing and sanding to get the
Cockpit to fit. Something I didn't
have to do with the 1/32 Scale.
|Bare Metal Foil is easy to apply
but tedious. The more individual
panel you do and orientate them
differently, the better it looks.
|Was too windy and cold outside to take photos so I had to do them inside.
The flash just doesn't do the Bare Metal finish justice.